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With his unconventionl take on casual ensembles, designer Junichi Abe of Japanese brand Kolor, presented his Fall/Winter '23 collection inside the headquarters of the French communist party in Paris: Espace Niemeyer, designed by famous architect Oscar Niemeyer. Junichi Abe launched Kolor in 2004, after studying at Tokyo's prestigious Bunka Fashion College. Abe gained experience at Junya Watanabe under the Comme des Garcons fashion house. With a strong focus on artisanal detailing, tailoring and textiles he quickly distinguished himself as a designer.
For the Fall/Winter '23 collection the brand kept it simple with strong tailoring and uncommon details influenced by sportwear, military and traditional menswear. The designer's philosophy centers around crafting sophisticated garments, the brand emphasizes on texture, detail and construction while creating new silhouettes.
The first look was a dark purple blazer with mismatched lapels, worn with a patchwork shirt underneath. We saw a variety of deconstructed motifs, on the outerwear, as well as the bottoms and knitwear. There were common white shirts with crooked collars and double layered sleeves. Trenchcoats turned into skirts being worned over checkered pants, combined with a tailored blazer. The loose-fit outerwear had some leather panels and exposed seams and looked like workwear having big pockets. Some with a horizontal zipper in the waist, others with asymmetric closures. The classic bomberjacket was redefined in a more classical jacket using a checkered wool print combined with fur collars, also coming in popping red, more referring to the original bomberjacket design. The leather panels and exposed seams came back in the bottoms as well, like the patchwork panel insight the thigh and a red breezy fabric constructed at one of the trouser legs. Mostly all looks were combined with a simple modern tailored shirt or polo style knitwear with colored minimal prints.
We loved the old blue tailored blazer with trenchcoat skirt, combined with the checkered pants and the blue shirt, maybe giving an unfinished feel but in our minds not too overdressed and giving personality to the wearer. Another outstanding look we loved we saw in the little gleamy black dress (first gif on top) with the airy silk train at the back.
Almost forgot one of the best... the shirt with the big graphic printed letters saying: "Waterproof" . What do we need more?
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