Louis Vuitton Men Fall/Winter '23 Paris Fashionweek


 


 



Probably a few saw coming that Colm Dillane, founder of KidSuper would be assigned as the temporary succesor of Virgil Abloh and designer of the new Louis Vuitton Men's Fall/Winter collection. The Vuitton house still stays silence naming a permanent new Creative Director after the passing of Virgil Abloh. Seeing the Fall/Winter '23 presentation, with a vibrant and KidSuper' own unpredictable approach to clothing, Dillane is clearly influenced and inspired bij Abloh and as told many times, he considers Abloh as a genius. It just so might be after the positive response on this collection, Dillane will be anounced as permanent Creative Director of the house. 
To be correct, this collection is designed by Louis Vuitton in-house Ready-to-wear Men Designteam, from whom most of them worked with Virgil Abloh during his time at Louis Vuitton. They looked back at Abloh's work for the house with Dillane directing, selecting and designing pieces. The results are a mix of Dillane's bright colors, artistic paintings/drawings and the genderfluide style Abloh added to the house. We see painted camera bags, decorated denim jeans, patchwork full-logo camouflage coats (with mixing bags) and a beautiful knit suit drawn directly by Dillane, one of our favourites. Dillane also asked the team to write down their thoughts about the collaboration and collection. These notes are stitched and patched together in a white aesthetic suit, all coming together on the runway.

Reviewing the collection at the headquarters of Louis Vuitton where a part of the set by the Gondry Brothers was re-created, we saw the figurative illustration which is classic KidSuper, closely. The airbrush-style artworks on the suits and some bags are craftwork Dilliane is known for. Dilliane combined an auction with a runway last season for his own brand and we can totally imagine seeing an art lover bidding highly for the hand painted bag, it is Art. 
The collection and set felt a bit nostalgic when styled with 70's design lamps, tapes, vinyl, old games, a racing play circuit, chairs etc like kids getting dressed in their dad's clothes. Adding a lot of platform soles to the kicks collection, increases that feeling.  Obviously the Fall/Winter '23 collection is not to measure against Abloh's designs for Louis Vuitton. It is not fair, creatively to both designers. However we see Dilliane keeping Abloh's vibe alive without losing his own signifant style and in the vision of the house. This new chapter for Louis Vuitton could be with Dilliane, never forgetting the chapter before. 

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