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Chinese designer Shangguan Zhe founded his menswaear brand in 2007,
straigh after graduating from university majoring in Visual Communication
and Advertising. He presented his first collection in 2013 and since then
is evolving his brand and showed his Fall/Winter '23 collection during
Paris Men's Fashionweek last june. As the brand is labelled as Menswear, it's containing many women's looks as well. The designer is casual about it
:"I don't think the gender thing matters at all..... There is an emphasis on
bringing the best from both genders.... I sometimes find explicit gender a
bit dumb", as said at Glamcult in 2021 during the pandemic. Titled 'La
veuve noire', translated as 'The black widow', leaves us with no other conclusion that
this collection is beyond gender.
Flirting with different subcultures and exploring darker themes the
visionof the designer falls together in sharp taoilored pieces,
corresponding with contemporary streetwear and streetculture details. The
aim of Sankuanz is to empower the self-expression of the wearer and
showing about who you are.
Weaving together classic silhouettes as black tailored tuxedo blazers,
with details of contemporary streetwear like a bikinitop or a simple
cropped simple tank, which the brand is known for. Other streetwear
details are used in the oversized hoodies, simple trackjackets, relaxed
floor swepping denim pants and bomber jackets. The collection mostly
appears in dark colors as black and dark brown, but there are bright poppy
colors in the graffiti prints and light camouflage prints.
For the Womenswear there are cut-out wrapdresses single colored but also
coming in bright prints, styled with heavy oversized furry coats. Other
tailored design are the long maxiskirts with high slit either in black,
simply styled with a white blouse, or more casual and tied up moving the
air slightly while walking.
- A whole new design is introduced with no neckline and an
overly-inclined shoulder-line, forming a radial shape at the back,
revealing the unique charm of oriental shapes. High-shoulder suits
convey power, while graffiti prints interpret the collision and fusion
of high fashion and street culture as they exist in the same universe.
Vintage fur invokes an ominous feeling, as if danger is lurking
underneath the luxuriant outerwear. The palette of this season consists
of browns, tortoiseshell colors and other dark shades that bring about a
sense of nostalgia, as this collection reinvents the style of 70-80s
with a modern design. The dagger, a signature emblem of SANKUANZ, is
given an upgrade in the leatherware of this collection. It is used at
the toecap and the heel of pointed cowboy boots and the end of belts,
symbolizing a killer’s lethal weapon in disguise. These details create a
sinister atmosphere when accompanied by the crimson clutch, a metaphor
for bloodshed. The chunky retro sneakers, a statement item of SANKUANZ,
are featured in new colors, bringing an unruly street style with their
oversized volume. - From Sankuanz
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