Collection Notes:
The looks of the Gauchere Fall/Winter '23-'24 collection declare the
house’s continual direction to focus on the person who is wearing the
garment and their real-life existence. For the second time in a row,
designer Marie-Christine Statz decided that the atmosphere of the Passage
des Jacobins was the ideal place to reflect the collection’s mood. The
toned-down color code is built on a palette of different greys, shades of
light brown, cream, white, and many blacks. A bright grass-green print
accentuates the mainly monochrome looks. Marie-Christine Statz extracted
the motif from an untitled work Camille Henrot painted in 2022. It was
transformed on sand-colored viscose resembling canvas. The oversized
shirt, mid-length skirt, and sleeveless top are constructed with placed
slits that form their shapes and reshape.
The growing bond and stimulating dialogue between Marie-Christine Statz
and Camille Henrot led to a series of black & white looks, including a
pyjama, one that Schnabel or Basquiat could have worn in the 1980's, with
an all-over pattern of Henrot’s erotic drawings, arranged in dangerous
promiscuity. As per DNA, tailoring provides the essence and larger part of
the Fall/Winter collection. Seamed slits break up this season, the
garments’ inherent precise silhouettes on coats, jackets, skirts, and
trousers. Fabrics with different weights, such as classic Italian menswear
pinstripes and heavier loden fabrics, alternate in one piece and modify
the shape. Open edges and large pleats deconstruct dresses, blazers, and
knits. All these precise manipulations of the garments come to life
differently, depending on the individual who wears them.
The collaboration with Camille Henrot results in our
most appreciated and outstanding
looks. Not only the light beige shirt with
green line-drawing (coming in a dress as well) but also the black and white looks are the most
compelling looks of the collection. Gauchere's niche leather garments are
favourite as always, especially this seasons' more sleek tailored
trenchcoat, giving it Matrix vibes. As the brand presented a minimal
aesthetic collection, the glitter dresses and the glittertop combined with
oversized wide-leg denimpants, were a pleasant alternation.
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