Taro Horiuchi debuted his first collection for Kolor during Paris Mens
Fashionweek. The Tokyo-born designer, now based in Japan, stepped in as
Creative Director after running his own label. This followed the departure
of Junichi Abe, who founded Kolor in 2004 and built it into one of Japan's
most respected fashion houses. His unique approach to fashion, alongside
Chitose Abe's work at Sacai, has played a key role in shaping contemporary
Japanese fashion.
Horiuchi first studied photography at Kingston University
in London before switching to fashion. In 2007, he earned a master's degree
from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. That year, he won the Diesel
Award at International Talent Support and later partnered with Diesel on a
capsule collection sold in 13 countries. He launched his own brand in 2010,
and introduced Th products in 2018.
Known for his thoughtful approach to design, Horiuchi added depth and
contrast to Kolor's style, as tailoring was the foundation of the
collection. As Horiuchi began with classic shapes, he didn't get rid of
structure but he adjusted it and made careful changes. Collars shifted
off-center, lapels broke away from their usual lines, hemlines tilted, and
proportions stretched gently.
Humor appeared in the styling and small details. The overall tone stayed
calm, but each choice showed quiet confidence. A jacket sat slightly askew.
Trousers folded in ways that seemed random but were carefully considered.
Colors didn't follow any set rules and Horiuchi used humor to loosen the
garments, adding space and ease to the structure.
That came through in
several standout looks. One bermuda shorts layered with a balloon skirt and
a blue blouses that flowed into a train-like skirt. Crossbody bags became
fashion statements, hidden under light-colored blouses. Workwear-style belts
were used as accessories on pants, bralettes, and tule skirts. Orange
climbing ropes were added to a light, short balloon skirt, with a white
sheer tule train-like skirt aswell, blending utility with playfulness. All
worn with technical sandals or sneakers, giving the looks comfy and modern
touch. Another favorite piece was a brown-beige blazer combined with a green
bomber jacket. Half of each was cut out and stitched together, creating a
fresh new style. This modern take on the suit was paired with wide,
brown-beige tailored pants.
Building on classic shapes and structures, Horiuchi showed a collection
focused on contemporary tailoring with surprising details, blending
functional wear with modern tailoring and streetwear. Kolor found a strong
designer to carry on Abe’s legacy in Horiuchi, his successor.
Collection notes:
For Spring/Summer '26, Kolor embarks on a journey through time, both literal
and emotional, offering a collection that feels like 'the hours' and 'the
waves' blending into one seamless motion. The designs tap into a layered
sense of nostalgia and futurism, where 'time travel' becomes a metaphor for
how clothes move, shift, and evolve with the wearer. At the heart of the
collection is a refined tailoring base, softened and made dynamic with
touches of 'chic humor' and casual irreverence.
This season marks a new chapter, as Kolor introduces Taro Horiuchi as
Creative Director. Born in Tokyo and a graduate of the Royal Academy of Fine
Arts Antwerp, Horiuchi brings a thoughtful, intellectual edge to the brand.
With accolades like the International Talent Support Diesel Award and a
résumé that includes Taro Horiuchi, 'th products', and collaborations with
Muji Labo and Descente all Terrain, his design DNA aligns with Kolor's
spirit; grounded, experimental, and subtly witty.
The Kolor Spring/Summer '26 collection is a celebration of subtle
instability. By gently dismantling the idea of perfect form, Kolor uncovers
new aesthetics rooted in off-kilter harmony. Blazers are intentionally
asymmetrical, trousers drape with unexpected volume, and classic silhouettes
appear warped, as if touched by the passage of time or a shift in gravity.
These irregularities don't disrupt; they reveal a new kind of beauty, calm,
intentional, and rich with texture. Kolor thrives on contrast, a constant
dialogue between opposites defines its rhythm. Tailoring meets techwear,
structure flirts with fluidity, and seriousness is diffused by lightness and
play. It's this quiet tension that creates freshness. In Horiuchi's debut,
Kolor doesn't just evolve, it transforms, offering a poetic and clever
rethinking of modern mens and womenswear that invites the wearer to walk
through time, with a smile.
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