Rui Fall/Winter '22 Paris Fashionweek



Our first aquintaince with Rui was at Palais de Tokyo during Paris Fashionweek, showing their Fall/Winter '22 collection. Calling the collection "The slits of life" refers not only to the day-to-day life which sometimes feels unexcited and boring, certain and steady, but it also refers to these unsudden and unplanned  moments or decision we hardly pay attention to. 
Rui was founded by Rui Zhou in 2019 and as the brand says: "Rui is a brand that explores the duality of all things, the relations between matters and beings, always in a more philosophical way. Rui always finds beauty in the imperfection, the unfinished, broken, or even unloved, and we are on a constant study of the space between perfection and imperfection. The softness and careful fragility of Rui’s compositions are met with powerful severity, revealing strength in their delicacy."

On this collection the designer explores and innovates the use of wool and cashmere, searching for boundaries between tender- and weakness but also pushing the boundaries of form and silhouette including all kind of female bodies. All the looks are made with great tailoring, patterns, beadings and handmade crochet items. The garments are following the different lines and versatile curves of the female body, which was presented by a diversity of (plus size) models. The amazing miniscule designs and softness of the fabrics, made it look very comfortable to wear.  
Our absolute top look was the extra-fine merino asymmetric purple dress with the spiral knits around the body. The design shows such a fierce yet easy-to-wear style which we perfectly love. The like wise made top, cropped and wide-balloon-short-sleeved, in the presentation combined with pants, is our second best. Just imagine it with a jeans or wearing it on a pencilskirt. All the looks were combined with pumps draped with slender long hair and  cut-outs in the front. After the hairy boots we saw at different collections, we loved seeing these ones.

"The collection shows a subtle but distinct sense of ambition to progress beyond the beautifully made but also explores a genuine functionality and the innovative use of wool and cashmere, orchestrated by a startling honesty between tenderness and strength. Partly using 3D whole-garment seamless knits and silk jacquard fabric with a quilted texture, Rui's collection not only pushes the boundaries of form, silhouette, and surface but also continues to pursue an ethereal and comfortable texture. Rui improves fine-gauge knits with a delicate pattern. Unlike traditional tubular only used for decoration trims, the extra-fine merino asymmetry purple dress and top make full use of the functionality with whole-garment knitting, based on a body figure, then, spiral the knits around the body with fishbone in delicate and flexible contortions for loose-fitting coziness exquisite dress, skirt, or tube scarf. Looking more closely at those unnoticed details, there is a lot to unpack: a merlot hat flats as the 2D circle but appears connected with water chestnuts crack after unfolding; the knitted pointelle long dress presents peacock feathers sheer; pleated allochroic pants and dress spiral twisted like shells, and worsted wool fabric shows gloss and gentleness on suits. Interpreted Rui’s signature piece with a photo humorously, that’s how the first T-shirt was born, which echoes with a few street senses that the embroidery wool hoodie and flared trousers created. Rui’s signature beading technique recurs in handmade crochet pieces, while the extremely skin-friendly fluffy miniskirt and tube top form a safe space for everyone to land, it also Forever in flux, Rui not merely continues its home goods line with new glass plates and jacquard blankets, but also diversifies accessories like quilted silk cashew bag, "C" barb thorns silver earrings and rings, a laser cut brooch, a pair of black leather gloves, as well as a pair of pumps with front > cut-out, embellished with slender long hair. All upped the sharp but soft romance feeling. Rui's collection finds the life-inspired appeal and elevates to new heights, whose sophistication is matched by body inclusiveness. There is transformation and warmth at this moment." Rui

(Edit and images by Brenda)

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