Voices of Fashion: Black Couture, Beauty and Styles

 


Gucci x Dapper Dan
Gucci x Dapper Dan



Off--White
Telfar

Thebe Magugu 
David Paulus


Botter
Stephen Burrows
Xhosa 

Virgil Albloh for louis Vuitton


Kenneth Ize
Filling Pieces
Daily Paper

Patta
Adidas x Priya Ahluwalia

Thebe Magugu
Xuly Bet
Patta


Dior x Maria Grazia Chiuri x Pathé 'O
Botter

"Black people are the Curators of Cool, you often hear. But that is by no means always acknowledged or recognized. That has everything to do with power and history.”  

With this statement, at the start of the exhibition, we are entering the big hall seeing Beyoncé 's film "Black is King" streamed on a big screen. Music, dance, costumes and sets are showing the beauty and variety of multiple African cultures. The first hall contains artistic creations made for the catwalk, couture (maybe not to go to the office:) which immediately brings down the prejudice that black fashion only exists out of streetwear. 
The next space was a references to the colonial era, the Dutch VOC, origins of the textile and cotton fabrics and slavery. 
Also a big overview about the upcome of black models in the fashionindustry beauty ideals and  magazine covers.  
Another chamber was filled with designers influenced by music and streetwear. This grew big the last decade, partly by the collaborations with big sports brand like Nike and Adidas. The last years also the designerlabels like Gucci and Dior used more divers cultural elements and colloborated with black/colored designers. In this section upcoming black designers as Kenneth Ize, Thebe Magugu, Telfar as well as Dutch Daily Paper and Filling Pieces were represented. All integrating their (cultural) background into the identity and work of their brand. 
The exhibition ended with statement and symbolic t-shirts/bags to raise awareness about prejudices. Necessary; in 2017 (new numbers are not available) only 1% of the designers showcasing in Paris and other big fashion cities, were  black.

“We want to inspire other third culture kids to acknowledge their roots. We want to give the western world o broader perspective on African culture through storytelling and design. Jefferson Osei, Abderrahmane Trabsini, Hussein Suleiman, founders Daily Paper

“I want to show the industry that I am not one specific scenario, but that the future of fashion can be diverse, also in advantage to the ecosystem.” Virgil Abloh, men's artistic director Louis Vuitton

-- A major fashion exhibition entitled Voices of Fashion; Black Couture, Beauty and Styles was set to open at the Centraal Museum. The show was the first ever staged by an art museum in the Netherlands to query the white gaze as the default vantage point from which to present, wear and collect fashion. Underpinning the exhibition are years of research by black, brown and white people that show that the fashion world and our relationship with it continue to be shaped by the legacies of European colonialism. Voices of Fashion takes you on a little told story of fashion, with a stunning exhibition design by Afaina de Jong of AFARAI.-- 

(Edit and images by Brenda)

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