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Taking inspiration from a building close to Gauchere's headquarters,
Marie-Christine Statz brought the Spring/ Summer '23 collection
literally into that location and staged the runway show in the center
of the Place Marche Saint-Honore in Paris. Designed in the mid 90's,
the building is minimalistic with lots of glass and amplifies
Gauchere's niche; architectural tailoring, deconstructed garments and
textures. Statz chose this ambivalent, imperfect place to bring the show as close as
possible to real life existence and to present her collection with
an en passant attitude that focusses on the person. It is an
emotional revelation, allowing to see the vulnerability of the
individual as a vehicle to point out their strength. The collection
also features six pieces in collaboration with artist Camille
Henrot.
The building's imperfection is translated into wrinkled fabrics,
like the beige suit, boxy oversized blazers and asymmetry in
unexpecting places. The color-palette contains solid black and grey
with earth tones. There was a big role for denim in the collection,
some hand-painted by artist Camille Henrot (like some other pieces),
combined with the easy-ness of a white crop-top, an oversized white
blouse or a simple white shirt. Every collection Statz comes with
some great timeless leather pieces. This season we saw tailored
highwaisted trousers coming in black and brown, an oversized leather
blazer and a matching brown short with short sleeved blouse, showing
elements of streetwear and femininy in this season's silhouette.
Our absolute top look, not an outfit actually this time but an
accessory, were the shoes; pleated ballerina look-a
likes, coming in blue, black and beige, probably made only for the
runway, uplifting the outfits, but we loved them. Also favourite
was the light beige suit, with a crinkled deconstructed effect which gave the suit
a magic glace catching the light in the alley. Another stand out piece was the
white tee with cut-out aside the hip/belly and on the back, looking
forward seeing that one on the streets. Statz signature is a minimalistic approach with great tailoring and (de)construction details, uplifted with some silk slipdresses and cut-out bodycon tops and dresses . With these you have a great Spring Summer wardrobe.
- Twisted garments with cut outs are the recurring motif of the
43 summer looks. Silk blouses, jersey tops, T-shirts and viscose
dresses feature rounded cut outs. They are layered and twirled to
emphasize the look. Backless fluid two-tone tops and dresses
balance the house’s foundational tailoring that continues to
accentuate a wide shoulder. The monochrome suiting comes in lagoon
blue, grey hues and signature black. Rectangular shapes are
softened and broken up by crinkled fabrics and irregular pleats.
Jackets, trousers, tops and dresses come with gathered seams that
produce fabric bubbles looking like fluffy clouds. High-waisted
trousers and skirts paired with fitted knit-tops form body-con
silhouettes. A silk twill with blurry multicolour print is
inserted with black lace and cut into dresses, blouses, tops and
skirts. Washed denim and white cotton-linen styles are styled in
total looks. Blazers, shorts and pleated trousers come in caramel
brown lamb leather. The warm hue is echoed by full-length crepe de
chine skirts and strap dresses in redwood brown. Christine Statz
wants to capture her collection with an en passant attitude that
feels real and shows the person – allowing to see the
vulnerability of the individual as a vehicle to point out their
strength. The angles and lines of the street and architecture form
the backdrop emphasizing the direction, urge and geometry of the
designs.- Gauchere
(Edit and pictures by Brenda)
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