Since its debut in 2014, Ryota Murakami's knit-focused label has steadily become one of Japan's most talked-about fashion houses, celebrated for its bold, unconventional aesthetic. As nominees for this year's LVMH Prize, we were truly excited to attend the show and experience the debut of the new collection.
For Fall/Winter '25 the brand explored a tension between minimalism and maximalism, Murakami redefined knitwear with intricate constructions and surreal silhouettes. The result was a lineup that managed to be both quietly refined and visually interesting. The runway showed a neutral palette, think soft beiges, crisp whites, and cool grays, but it was the careful detailing that made the collection stand out. Delicate embroidery, off-kilter hems, and unexpected silhouettes added layers of intrigue to pieces that might have otherwise read as minimalist staples. Some garments looked deliberately inside out; others featured exaggeratedly tight sleeves, one evoking a straitjacket, another stretched like a mummy's wrap.
Our standout piece: a sleeveless, pale gray maxi dress resembling an elegantly chaotic stack of socks, yet looking super chic. We also adored the black-and-white knit, the kind of ski sweater you might recognize, very long, yet all scrunched up together. Another favorite was the gray knit paired with an A-line black skirt. The collar was uniquely crafted at the front, almost like a large brooch, giving it a voluminous effect.
Overall, we were impressed by how the pieces were styled and how the models were instructed to walk, bringing the pieces to life, while Pillings beautifully honors the craftsmanship of Japan’s talented hand knitters. Anyone who believes knitwear is boring clearly hasn't experienced Murakami's vision.
Collection notes:
Up until now, we've created ten collections as Pillings. At the heart of our clothing is a deep reflection on how we relate to and engage with society, as if we've been searching for the name of the dust that gathers in the corners of the heart. For our 11th collection, we connected fragments of what we've made so far, memories, and bits of imagination, in search of a sense of universality, in the way that is true to Pillings. Perhaps, deep down, there was a desire to create something like a vague, distant hometown.
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