The show opened with an almost apocalyptic feel; hidden vents beneath the
stage released vapor into the air, which was then drawn into a ring of
outlets. These directed the mist toward a high-speed airscrew by Wurtzel,
whipping it into a fierce, swirling tornado.
Dillane showcased patchwork techniques in jackets and pants, transformed
upcycled telephones into bags (!!), introduced head-to-toe fur ensembles,
sleek briefcases, and an all white look that combined furs with a lightweight
cotton skirt layered over trousers. The letter covered garments first
seen in Dillane's Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter '23 collection, (our favorite look
at the time, made out of notes from Louis Vuitton Design Studio employees,
find it
HERE) returned in a new form. This time, a mid-length dress featured
Dillane’s own past writings, adding a personal touch to the design. We also
loved the black leather trench coat featuring a poetic design, while the
penultimate quilted white suit was both impressionistic and technically
striking.
The brand continues into new stylistic territories and unveiled an entire
new BAPE collaboration on the runway, marking the Japanese streetwear brand
first-ever Paris Fashionweek appearance. This collection fuses Harajuku and
Brooklyn influences with KidSuper's bold vision, offering a fearless
reinterpretation of iconic BAPE patterns, including a Dillane caricature
Baby Milo T-shirt, shark hoodies, house camo jackets, and a suit pinstriped
with vine leaves. Similarly, a capsule with WILDSIDE Yohji Yamamoto balanced
KidSuper's irreverence with Yohji Yamamoto's sleek artistry, featuring
tailored wool gabardine pieces with fluid Japanese silhouettes.
Brazilian artisans from PIET crafted a hand crocheted jacket, while HAMCUS
designed a coat that cleverly transforms into a hammock.
At the end of the show, the swirling tornado transformed into a whirl wind
of paper strips, leaves, and birds. Opera singer Ekaterina Shelehova,
whose voice had been sampled throughout the show, took the stage for a
live performance. Colm Dillane then stepped forward, offering a few words
before basking in the applause.
Dillane’s playful fusion of Art and Design gives this collection its
signature KidSuper charm. His attention to detail and evolving storytelling
deepen as he continues to embrace multicultural and multidisciplinary
influences, discovering fashion in the most unexpected places. As Dillane
put it in his show notes, 'The best art isn't created in isolation, it
emerges from collective collaboration, a dialogue between diverse talents
and perspectives', continuing: 'Fashion and art are about building worlds
that inspire dreams', highlighting his dedication to risk-taking as a key
element of his creative process. This ethos shaped the show and Dillane's
passion, evident in both the multidisciplinary partnerships and the crafted
collection. Storm Colm may have passed, but the collection and show left an
unforgettable mark.
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| Joost Klein & Tommy Ca$h by Martin Rybak |
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